Seoul Fashion Week S/S started last Friday, for the first time without its most endeared fashion icon, Andre Kim who died of cancer in August.

Famous for his glamorous, elegant wedding gowns that featured Korea’s unique patterns, he was one of Korea’s most prolific and popular designers. His dramatic star-studded catwalk shows were always the talk of the town, and an appearance in this show was the barometer of a star’s popularity.

Though his signature look of thick stage make-up, painted head and immaculate white spacesuit-like outer garment were often the subject of a comic parody, Koreans loved his down-to-earth, humble nature and his effort to express the beauty of Korea onto his pieces of ‘art.’

While his absence is still acutely felt by many in and out of the industry, the event is not without promising, fast-rising young designers, not to mention top established ones.

The showcase of delicately-executed garments by nine emerging designers including S=YZ and GILIYATE in the Generation Next stage got spotlighted with minimal, practical yet womanly dresses in silk, chiffon, and see-through fabrics.

The collection by Doii Lee, a graduate from Central St. Martins College who worked with world renowned designers such as John Galliano, again exhibited her imaginative, fashion-meet-fairytale-like lovely traits with colorful skirts hemmed with flamboyant fringes.

The seven-day show will be wrapped up with Miss Gee Collection by Ji Choon-hee, the darling of Korean celebrities, who made clothes for a handful of TV dramas. One of the most well-established designers, she is vocal about her desire to make clothes unique but wearable.

On top of 61 runways, a discussion session under the theme of ‘Rising Asia’ will be held, for the first time on Tuesday, attended by fashion week organizers from Japan, China, and Singapore.

And more than 100 buyers including from French, Hong Kong, and German department stores are expected to be attending exclusive fair shows, who might be on the lookout for the next ‘Andre Kim.’